10 September 2011

Homecomings 1 & 2


So, I've been back in the States now for three weeks and change, and it is incredible to me now that I ever left. It's almost like I have been in an 8-month haze, just getting by. That sounds a bit harsh I think, as I review that sentence, but that is just my perspective 6000 miles away from that experience.

Not that I'm disconnected from SK! I have been making a concerted effort to integrate all that went on there into my present life. The hard thing about that is that my present life - with all its social excitement, its professional busy-ness, and its noisy English everywhere - can be very distracting. I walk around still feeling overstimulated, and I have no idea when I'll feel comfortable with my calendar or my general pace of life again. Believe me, I had no idea how much I was always moving. :)

There is also lingering work stuff. I am sorry to say that my Army boss can't seem to let me go, and is apparently defaming me and my professional work to people there whenever he gets the chance. That's something I will have to take care of. I also committed to regularly “see” (Skype is a wonderful thing, isn't it?!) people, and managing those connections makes me happy. And the connections I made to my friends in SK are still very strong. I quite frequently find myself saying something that only Cadena or Jessica would think is funny, and I miss commiserating over silly military or Korean stuff.

What I have had time to do in the last three weeks is see family and friends:) My first welcome home occurred in New York, and it was so wonderful to be with happy and healthy colleagues again! My second homecoming was a big family food fest (or “just a small party” as we call it:) ), where I was able to hug everyone I'd been missing for so long. And the week I spent with my parents was pure bliss; I cannot thank them enough for the relaxed everything they gave me during my vacation. My first week back in Chicago met me with much craziness: I started teaching right away (the first of my three classes was 9a on Monday, what?!?), and my Wellspring work began on September 1. In between, I was out a lot, and I think I found here all the wine I was searching for in Daegu:)

And my traveling days are not done, I have decided...I just can't see other countries as easily (my Passport needs a rest anyway...actually, a replacement:) ). But I did hit New York City over Labor Day, to see my cousin, to watch some tennis, and to fall in love with that city all over again. I'm learning I can still have adventures, relatively easily, even being home. That flight credit is also motivating me to see my own country!

I move into my new place at the end of this week, and my stuff arrives on/about the 17th (I'm hoping for earlier...fingers crossed for me, please!), and maybe then I can fall into a regular routine and get back to “normal” life. Will it ever be truly “normal” again for me? I don't know. SK has changed me, but I guess that's true for all my experiences – not only of the past 2 years, but everything that comes along seems to fill me with awe and provide an opportunity for change in some way. It will be an interesting life from here on I think. I'm just so very glad I had SK and everything that came before it to open my eyes to all of that.

I have one more homecoming, this Saturday, thrown by my BFF, officially welcoming me back to Chicago. I cannot wait to see everyone – either for the first time since arriving back in the States or since last week:). I plan to post some pics here and maybe a funny story or two from it, but then I think this blog will come to a close. Obviously, I'm no longer “in Korea”, but I also feel that it's time for this chapter of my life to end. Several people have suggested I keep blogging, and I find that flattering and also intriguing:) If I decide to, I'll link this to that, so that people can understand better how I view the world and my place in it.

For now, thanks for reading. Thanks for being interested in this little part of my life. Thanks for your comments and your support and your laughs at my expense:)

Here's to adventure, no matter how you find it! (Please picture me toasting you with a huge glass of wine!)

Kristina


19 August 2011

A perspective on my last misadventures in Korea...

Hey everyone (and by "everyone" I'm pretty sure I mean "mom and dad")!

My friend/roomie/travel buddy, Cadena, also blogs her time in SK. She just posted some fun pics and observations on my last days, so if you'd like to check them out, go take a look at My So Called Life. She has done a ton of stuff on the peninsula, too, so check out her other posts as well. She's a photographer so her pics are awesome! And she's the only person I'll ever willingly let take pics of me with food...mostly bc I didn't have a choice. :)

PS. Apparently, in my last week, I wore that dress OUT!:)

More later on my ever-interesting transition back to A-murr-ica! 

15 August 2011

Trying to get it together (PS #1)

Ultimately, this post - and really, these days, my entire life - is full of gratitude. Forgive what snarkiness may come out, as I adjust to jetlag and dive straight into work:)

So, we made it! Furgie and I survived an I-don't-know-how-many-hour-bc-my-mind-can't-wrap-around-the-dateline-issue trip, and arrived into the welcoming arms of Homecoming #1: WNY! Namely, the lovely Kim Atwater...thank you for not only picking us up at the airport, but putting up with my slight slurring of words pre-Starbucks infusion, and my worry over getting my cat out of her carrier. Furgie did beautifully overall, and only cried once during the L-O-N-G descent into ATL.

Speaking of ATL...seriously, folks, I believe this is where flights go to die. EVERY flight appeared delayed to me as I wandered the crowded terminals. Also, there is no Starbucks in Terminal C - beware!!! There IS, however, a spa, and since my layover looked delayed from 3.5 to 5 hours (gah!), I decided to treat myself. A facial and a pedicure later, with added head, neck and arm and shoulders massage, I was pretty happy for the delay! And for this, I thank ATL for forward thinking, know they are the busiest and most delayed airport in the nation. I also thank Cadena, because really, if we hadn't spent that layover in Shanghai, I wouldn't have even thought about doing anything other than sitting at my gate:)

So, now that I'm firmly ensconced on American soil and happily already working at Wellspring, I cannot think of a better place to be "immersed" back into culture - a small community in which the scenery and the people are familiar, the work is enjoyable, the people are all happy to be here and also motivated to do well. Being here, it almost feels like I never left.

I AM seeing/sensing things differently already, even within all the familiar. It's like I'm on high alert, hearing everything, all conversations, all background noise, because my ears have been trained to search it out for the last 8 months. I have the urge to say "thank you" and "hello" in Hangul, and I have found myself pre-sentence stopping and correcting. I have also been automatically trying to convert dollars to dollars, and time zones, and laughing at myself because that makes no sense, in the end. Its really incredible how habits form so quickly, and are sometimes unbreakable even when you change contexts. Another example: I have no idea when I'll stop handing things to people with two hands, or with one hand on my elbow, the other holding the object such as a credit card. That one may be the toughest to break!

And of course I'm missing friends! It's funny, but I didn't realize how many I'd made until I made the effort to get together with each of them my last week! But that's always the way it goes, for me and for anyone. So I am determined to make the effort to spend as much time as possible with friends now that I'm home, to make up for lost time and to not regret missing out in the future:)

More later on adjusting:)

Until then, I miss you, friends from Daegu:)







12 August 2011

Farewell, Korea

I started this blog just 8 months ago, and it seems strange to end it now. I've loved having the outlet for thoughts, feelings, internal and external struggles, and the connection with people - even if it was ever only my family and some friends:) I'll miss it as well as having regular adventures in this crazy country (and I mean that in the best possible way!).

I know I've already waxed thankful for being here (see Okinawa blog), but over the last two weeks I have felt a tremendous amount of gratitude for the people I've met here and as well as this place. Korea allowed me perspective, not only on myself but on the world. It gave me opportunity to explore the literal "other side" of the globe and taste, see, smell (and what a smell!) different things. It introduced me to some exceptional people who dedicate their lives to their country, or to adventure. And I couldn't be happier that I took advantage of this opportunity at this point in my life.

I think transitioning will be a bit difficult or even odd at times. I've been thinking about how my mind is going to handle constant stimulation - just think, it's been free to focus on other things because there isn't the constant hum of a language I can understand in the background, or the ticker of words to read on signs or buildings as I pass. I also think my new perspective on the world might change how I interact with people - not only will I speak slower at first, I think, just to sort out the constant din in my head, I'll talk about the world differently because I've seen it from the other side - and I wonder how that's going to affect me in my everyday. It should be interesting, to say the least, and I hope you all won't mind a few last entries here to tell how my move-back is going!

For now, again, I'm too busy saying goodbye to friends to worry too much about what all is going to happen once I'm back on American soil. And I thank Korea for such an adventure. If I can make it through all of this, I  feel like I can really enjoy my new life back home now, without reserve or (too much) worry.


11 August 2011

I am going to miss this...

Because everyone needs a daily laugh...I just happen to get mine in my Inbox every day!

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06 August 2011

Things to do in Daegu

So, the DMZ tours are fully booked the entire month of august, which means, sadly, that that trip will not be my last hoorah in Korea. I will have to settle for Daegu. A daunting a task as that seems, I am not willing to simply sit around my last full weekend on the peninsula! That means Daegu city tour!


A view of downtown Daegu

Not a lot of things to see in this city that seems, increasingly, like the same neighborhood over and over again. But there IS color...


Seoman Market wares: Traditional Korean formal dress. I'm sorry, Katie (my cousin) and other members of my family that requested one after her brilliant (at the time) idea...I can't bring them back! They are custom made, very dainty, and relatively expensive. I will bring you all make-up gifts!

Pretty pillows

...and everyone is getting excited about the upcoming track and field world championships that begin (sadly) shortly after I leave, August 27. The city is peppered with international flags and brightly colored signage like this one:
I have a special place in my heart for this mascot, because he is simply so cute...and who doesn't love runners that are blind? :) 

Finally, I did get to take some pictures of my daily walk to work on base. It still surprises me, after 8 months, to walk along barbed wire fencing and Restricted signs, even as overgrown and relatively pretty as they are.


It was another scorcher of a day, hitting an amazing 95% with 75% humidity. Bleck. I can complain only because, in watching the news, I see that most of my own country is suffering a similar heat wave. It's hard to believe it's slated to get even hotter this coming week, my last living here. Wish me luck! I only have about 5 outfits left that weren't carted off by the movers, so here's hoping I left out the coolest ones:)

All packed up and ready to go!

Stuff Korean People Like

Large mega-apartment complexes that appear to be cities unto themselves 
Seen from the ground or the air, these mega-opolises are ubiquitous and impressive; I once updated my status in astonishment, "helipads atop apartment complexes?" The answer was yes. My only question is, with the amenities posh and rent high, are all of them full??




His & Hers matching underwear sets
Apparently, these are all the rage as wedding gifts!





05 August 2011

Stuff Korean People Like

Passive-Aggressiveness


This is what I found in my elevator this morning... I assure you I am (probably) not the neighbor this person refers to!


04 August 2011

More Stuff Korean People Like (and now maybe the world?)

K-POP!

I have been meaning to write a blog about K-pop, as it's (obvs) all the rage here. I have been toying with the idea of buying some songs, reviewing them, then making CDs for people back home. Now that I'm 10 days from departure, I know that my grand plan will never leave the beginning stages, but here's a taste of what is sweeping the nation...and apparently the world, now!

Korean Wave starts lapping on Europe's shores

Korean Wave starts lapping on Europe's shores  
AFP/HO/File – This photo released to AFP by SM Entertainment 







by Jung Ha-Won  August 4
SEOUL (AFP) – South Korea's pop music industry is eyeing Europe after taking East Asia by storm, with promoters using the power of the Internet to lure distant fans.

K-pop over the past decade has established a devoted fan base in China, Japan and Southeast Asia, with heartthrobs like Rain and boy bands like TVXQ packing out concerts and topping charts.

Exports of music products surged from $6 million in 2002 to $31.3 million in 2009 as the phenomenon known as the Korean Wave (hallyu) spread.

K-pop's overseas success was driven partly by a need to go beyond the home market, plagued by plunging CD sales and free music downloads on the Internet in the world's most wired country.

South Korea's recorded music sales shrank from 286.1 billion won ($272 million) in 2002 to about 80 billion won in 2009. Entertainers searched for new ways to survive -- by courting fans abroad via the Internet.

Now South Korea's digital music market -- including legal music downloads on mobile phones or the Internet -- is worth 600 billion won after a series of court rulings against free music-streaming and downloading sites.
SM Entertainment, the country's biggest music talent agency, in 2009 opened its official channel on YouTube to release new music videos and broadcast concerts and other public appearances by stars.

The company also has hired composers and choreographers in Europe and the United States and recruited teenagers from elsewhere in Asia to appeal more to global audiences.

Two sell-out concerts in June in Paris, featuring SM's flagship groups like SHINee, Super Junior and Girls' Generation, together drew 14,000 screaming fans singing along to Korean-language numbers.

"The response from European fans totally stunned us," said Kim Young-Min, CEO of SM Entertainment. "Now we feel more confident that we can take a plunge in the European market, albeit step by step."

Kim told AFP in an interview that major global music labels believed it was too risky to expose too much content on the Internet due to copyright concerns, "but it actually helped us gain a global fan base so quickly".
He said he hopes to release English-language albums of the agency's stars in Europe and to partner with mobile phone makers like Apple or Nokia to boost digital music sales -- already the biggest source of the firm's revenue.

"In this age when people search for and own music on a single device, it's more effective to collaborate with global mobile platform producers than with record labels to expand our market," said Kim.
"Gone are the days when one singer can sell 100 million CDs. Now what's important is having artists notching up 100 million online downloads for their songs."

K-pop has long been led by bubblegum pop stars hand-picked by talent agencies -- often in their early teens -- and intensively trained for years before they hit the stage.

Agents like SM handle everything from recruitment to music production and largely dictate their artists' styles -- mostly dance tunes from hiphop to electronics -- and career moves.
Critics liken the process to an assembly-line of similar, robot-like teen stars with fleeting popularity, whose every word and move is rigorously pre-scheduled by the agents.

Lawsuits are rife among top teenage stars including those from SM, who accuse agents of imposing excruciating work schedules and sharing earnings unequally.

Kim disputed the criticism, saying his firm must recoup an investment of up to 4.5 billion won to develop raw teen talent.

"It's not like the US, where record labels pick up musicians ready to hit the stage," he said, adding the agency's singers collect more than 60 percent of earnings from commercial endorsements.

Kim admitted that K-pop performers "may look all similar and appear to sing all similar music", but said the firm would usher in other South Korean artists.

"We're just beginning to open a new door, offering what we do best. People who've come to like our music will soon want to listen to other genres like rock and so on," he said.

And here's a YouTube page by said SM Entertainment, for your listening pleasure (or not...actually, it's pretty catchy:) ):


Ah, Korea...

I am definitely getting reminiscent in my last days living in Korea. I have really enjoyed living abroad, embracing the craziness that is Asia, Korea, government work OCONUS, etc. Here's some of what I'll miss...tempered by some things I won't miss at all, ever (always the Libra!):

Things I will miss
easy travel to nearby, tiny, often exotic other countries
my 4-bedroom apartment with a great view
living among mountains
working a 40-hour week
being able to walk everywhere
water coolers everywhere
small portions at restaurants
being called beautiful by perfect strangers
Engrish
constantly learning - every moment being an experience
automatically smiling at a person on the street because she looks Western - instant camraderie
posing automatically with the peace sign in pictures
the KTX/speedrail in general
enough closet space to fill my entire wardrobe and linens, with space to add!
saying "hello" and "thank you" in 2 languages, one right after the other
being able to have a conversation and know that about half of it won't be understood
the every day opportunity for shooting photos
cheap cabs
tax free goods at the PX and Commissary
being the mysterious foreigner
eavesdropping when I start to hear the one English word in thousands of Hangul
outdoor markets
shopping in categories - all the light stores on one street, all the pet stores on another, food, clothing, cellphones....
car art
shopping at 11pm because everything is still open


Things I won't miss 
the smell of methane wafting up from sewers everywhere - quite the way to start a morning
missing my rich social life back home
working in substance abuse
working a 40-hour week...for an asshole
being able to walk everywhere...but not wanting to walk anywhere!
monsoon season (it's a killer!)
it being difficult to be a vegetarian
the staring
not being able to communicate at my education level (to hair stylists, to coworkers, to my cleaning woman, my movers, on public transit, etcetcetc)
constantly learning - it's exhausting!
being yelled at "Hello!!!!" by little kids trying to practice their English (or being asked "Where are you from?" and then having the conversation end right there.)
the military and civil servants
people taking off their shoes in restaurants...having to take my shoes off when I totally forgot to wear socks or easy-off shoes
saying "hello" and "thank you" in 2 languages, one right after the other
the rudeness of the Korean people - they can be so sweet when they know you, but they can be so harsh automatically when they don't
people being afraid of my cat when they see her
bureaucratic nonsense
not being able to order takeout other than pizza or chicken (and only from one restaurant, aptly named BBQ Pizza)

I am sure there's more.

I keep telling people Korea is great, come visit the country, see the beauty, stay in Seoul or at the beach in Busan, and enjoy a tech'd-out country that welcomes foreigners and has big goals to be a player in the big world. It is an amazing place, and I'm so happy to have had the chance to experience it, in spite of the crazy! It was all good crazy, anyway. 

01 August 2011

OKINAWA: Not exactly Japanese for "last hurrah", but we can pretend...


Okinawa...
Boats in a small harbor

...tropical island in the midst of the Sea of China...

...southerly vacation destination of mainland Chinese...

...birthplace of a fantastic person (Ms. Cadena herself!)...

...last hurrah for two travel-crazy friends and my last out-of-country trip before flying home!

I have always had a thing for palm trees
And was it ever some relaxing trip!!! First of all, I want to announce/apologize that this blog post will, in a sense, double as my application for a photography position at Travel + Leisure Magazine. Not that I'm that talented, but it was just TOO EASY to take great pictures of fabulous sights on the island. (Side note: if you think the pics are crap, move on to another blog, please:) ).

Ahhhhh....

Second, I want to admit that this is actually a relatively difficult blog entry to write, simply because the trip was so fabulously relaxing.

An Okinawan beach with concrete "jacks" for typhoons
We drove,

Cadena mans the wheel on the right side...she's the only one with the int'l license...must work on that!
we saw sand and secret beaches (thanks, Martha!) and pokey islands out in the water,

Tide was out

we basked in sunshine, and dipped our toes in bath-like water,

Tide pools

we took photos (obvs!),

Martha taking pictures

we ate sushi (YAY!!!!) (we also ate too many power bars and too much trail mix, but budget-eating is not the stuff of T+L, so I will not go into detail here!),

I didn't take pics of the best sushi ever, so here's the closest thing I "pic'd" of food...an empty crab shell

we read books (I personally started 4 on this trip - Adult ADD?? perhaps...),

We also read lots of Engrish:) 
we spent time with good/new friends,

Martha and Cadena over the menu at Jacapo's
we explored the crazy-biggest base I have ever seen (and spent a little money in their BX, not gonna lie),

The sea wall
we drank coffee and walked and explored on our own schedules,

Look at the cream in my coffee!

we visited the end of the island, with all its jutting, rocky cliffs and bellowing surf, at sunset,

At the edge
and I, personally, felt the utmost gratitude for so many things. After a tumultuous year, I was able to stand on the end of a country, look up at the pinky-blue sky and thank God for my life, for its crazy-adventurous tilt-a-whirl of a year, for its opportunity and for its adversity and its pleasure in the little things. It was an epiphany, self-actualization, and the end of a transition all wrapped up in one perfect sunset. And even on the verge of another move and the start of something else, I was able to look back on the last 7.5 months and feel joy in them.

For that, I thank you, Okinawa - a place I may never have visited but for living in South Korea with a good friend who just had to get there this year (Happy Birthday, again:) ), and my healthy sense of adventure, of course.

Life is good at the beach!
Here's the full album - I warn you, lots of sand and water pics!:)


26 July 2011

Today's (Tiny) Trauma

And I was just saying to people how EASY my move-back to Chicago was going...


Today, reality hit me in a seemingly-minor but emotionally-major way. Basically, I was scheduled to fly out August 14 on China Eastern and Continental airlines, with short layovers in a couple cities. While attempting to finalize my reservations and let them know I would be bringing my cute fuzzy with me, I discovered those companies do NOT allow animals in-cabin AT ALL. What the...? If you're an animal owner who travels, you've heard the horror stories of cargo travel for pets. I went into full-on fix-it mode. 


So, I was scrambling after hearing that news, as it was not my experience from my flight here. By "scrambling", however, I mean "sitting on the phone for 6 hours of my day waiting to talk to someone who eventually failed me." First, the process of registering her on each flight (Daegu to Shanghai, Shanghai to Newark, Newark to Albany) was getting really complicated - I found out, after registering on the cargo website, that I would have to hire someone outside of the airline AND the cargo company in order to get my paperwork together just for Continental. I couldn't even REACH China Eastern, as no one was answering the two numbers I had for them. And the price of all this just kept increasing with each call. I was looking at spending a) the money to get her a hardsides case with all their requirements and have my parents ship it here because they don't have them ANYWHERE in Daegu, b) the time I would have to spend either running around looking for a hardsides here AND/OR on the phone in order to arrange all this, and c) the expense to put her in CARGO, let alone d) the stress of two international flights without her, worrying that she was uncomfortable, hungry, tired, hating me, or worse: crushed! 


And then it happened: I was on the phone toward the end of my day with a lovely operator from Expedia (thank you, Fiona!), and I started crying. Not just the tearing up kind of crying, either, but the I-cant-talk-I'm-so-embarrassed-but-I-can't-respond-because-I'm-so-frustrated-AND-crying kind of crying. She was very sweet, and tried to empathize, saying things like, "Please don't cry" and "She's your baby, isn't she?" But it didn't help. We finally had to get off the line while she called Continental on my behalf. Wow, I was a mess. 


Ultimately, I simply canceled my first flight, decided to use the credit for travel around the States (Dana, I'm talking to YOU), and booked a different flight with Korean Air. THEN I booked Furgie on Korean Air, making sure via telephone that she could, indeed, ride by my side for a little extra cost. I only talk about the money, however, in order to emphasize the fact that she is TOTALLY WORTH all the effort!!!! 



Being the lovable cuddle ball she is, I think she knew I was stressed, as she has been by my side, nuzzling, or just sitting near me all evening. And she has gotten tons of love and TONS of treats for being so sweet. 


All's well that ends well, I guess! I am much happier, and I know Furgie will be on travel day. I arrive hours earlier at Wellspring New York, which will be wonderful (can I put in my request for bison sloppy joes now??)  I still get to say I've never flown into one of the big NYC airports - a strange distinction, I know:) And a BIG thank you to everyone who sent well-wishes in response to my FB distress call. I so appreciate the love!





24 July 2011

Stuff Korean People Like

Inspired by one of my personal favorite webpages of all time, I am adding this regular segment to my blog. Enjoy!

1. KIMCHI
Ubiquitous, smelly, and famed for its dietary properties (questionable, as all claims made by Asian peoples are questionable [see also "world's tallest buddha" and "world's longest wall seen from space" posts...ok, one of those IS true}, kimchi is a Korean staple. And the people - they LOVE it! There are about 4 billion different kinds of kimchi, all served in tiny little dishes before a meal. I have only tried about 8, but I couldn't tell the difference between any of them.



2. LADY UMBRELLAS
When in Korea (and other Asian countries), bring a smallish umbrella, preferably in pastel shades, maybe even some lace around the edging, to shade yourself from the sun and preserve your whitest skin possible. Tanning is not big here, and I've even seen some men attempting to block out the nasty sun's rays using their European men's leather carry-alls.




3. SAMSUNG
The home company of everything electronica, the Korean muse seems to rise and fall with the stock prices of this corporate conglomerate. A great many Korean families are way over their heads in debt these days, and technology is one suspected culprit!


4. BLACK PEOPLE
The stereotype is true: Asians think Black people are an oddity. Now, take it to heart that they also think I am an oddity, but still, they're not lining up to touch me or take pictures with me (well, now that I think about it, they kind of do...anyway...). But I have seen great crowds gather around black friends and fellow tourists, just to get a snapshot with them.

It's also been said that Koreans sometimes try to wipe the dirt off, but I have never seen this and that is most likely something that happened many, many years ago. I have seen some distrust in Korean faces when I walk with a black friend (but then again, you see that in the States, too!), but nothing so overt as cleaning behavior. Overall, I think Koreans simply see a photo op and take it!!





20 July 2011

THAILAND!!!

Another weekend, another adventure...and with the number of my weekends quickly counting down, I feel I have to make the most of each of them. Thankfully, Thailand was the place to do so!

I have to start out saying that this was my first non-organized-tour trip. I'm usually not one for group tours, but the tourism and travel office here has been super handy in obtaining things like travel visas and cheap airfare. But it was time - probably overdue - to venture out on my own with a travel buddy and have an adventure!

So, here are my suggestions of the BEST To Do's if you ever find yourself in the former Kingdom of Siam - Enjoy!:



1. First stop: Bangkok!
Bangkok is the capitol of Thailand, and the seat of the King, currently Rama IX. There are modern and old parts, and I highly recommend staying and touring around the Old City. It has something like 50 gajillion Wats (temples), the Grand Palace, gardens, monuments, a fort, a river, cruise boats and water taxis, and is easily walkable throughout. The modern city is much like any dirty, old city in the States, and is nothing to write home about; but you can actually feel the age of Old Bangkok. We stayed in a cheap little hotel along one of the canals, and were able to walk or take a short ride to anything we wanted to see.



2. Ride a Tuk-Tuk...but be prepared to argue!
Tuk-tuks are basically a scooter with a small flatbed in the back, rigged up to carry 2-4 people (but we saw many more crammed in them!) for short distances. For a mere 20 bhat, we hired a driver for 3 hours to take us to several Wats and statues. The arguing comes in when the driver insists on taking you to sites such as a jewelry factory or a tourist office, where he gets a kickback or a gas discount just for showing up with people; another common argument is when he tries to charge you double at the end of your time with him, saying that his rate was "for 1 person, and you are 2!" Just laugh it off and chalk it up to part of the experience...but don't pay more than your stated agreement. All the guidebooks recommend to agree on an amount beforehand, and you absolutely should...but also be prepared for them to change it at the end of the day.


3. Visit as many Wats as possible
There are so many wats in Old Bangkok that, after awhile, they may appear to be all the same. However, they are not, so perk yourself up with some good Thai coffee (the absolute BEST on this continent,  I swear!) and keep going, because there will be something - like a sitting or standing Buddha, or the "tallest" Buddha, or the "only" emerald or black Buddha in this hemisphere - in each one you see. And be astounded at the shear number of them, because they can be around every corner. Thailand, after all, is a theocracy, and you will see people turning with hands pressed together anywhere near a Wat, taking a brief moment to pay respect to the deity close by. The Thai people are a very good example of making some time for spirituality in the every day. 


4. Buy auspicious bracelets
They are sold at Wats and monasteries, and are usually made of metal or semi-precious stones. Buy one for your friend, and lovely people at home. They bring good luck and blessings, and Lord knows we could all use  those!



5. Travel with a good friend
Preferably one who's flexible and understanding, for when you screw up things like, say, your flight home... (more on that later)


6. Don't purchase or wear funny pants
You will see them everywhere, often hidden in the most unremarkable places, like a market stand selling fine crafts; you will see them on hippies and 50-year-old tourists from LA alike; you will see them at train stations and in subways and in tuk-tuks, but you will NEVER see them on a native Thai. They are funny-pants, and range from palazzos with elephants and bright prints to gauzy wide-legs with an indescribable and baffling third leg down the middle (supposedly, the crotch?). My friend Cadena calls them dookie pants, because they kind of hang like that. They are hideous...and still, they start to grow on you after about 3 days. Something about the patterns, I think, that are hypnotic. But resist, dear friends, because there is no where on this Earth that they are appropriate, and your friends and other tourists will just laugh at you behind your back:)  


7. Go over your budget at Night Markets
People may head to China for all the wares, but Chiang Mai is where it's at for handcrafts and homemade goods that are impressive - and impressively inexpensive. You ALL are getting gifts, so yay for Thailand! There is everything from food to clothes to art to paper goods to Buddhist paraphernalia to little bits of culture. It is astounding, and all sorts of a cultural learning experience. And, luckily, there are plenty of ATMs nearby.



8. Get out of Bangkok and do something fun, like riding elephants! (I.e, don't screw up your plane tickets)
So, yeah, about that bit on the tickets...we're sitting at dinner on our first night in Chiang Mai, and we're reviewing our itineraries so that we can plan elephant riding and possible ziplining with gibbons or head-sticking-in tiger mouths - you know, that old chestnut. And I look at our flight leaving Chiang Mai, and it is about 11 hours AFTER our flight home from Bangkok! OH NO, because that's not the correct direction of travel!! So, instead of riding elephants, we headed to the airport to try to get on another flight...not the easiest task, considering it was a holiday (see below also), but we were so blessed the entire trip, it happened relatively quickly and painlessly.

However, I have seen many people's pictures with elephants, and it looks amazing. I highly recommend it!


9. Go for a night drive to see the Wats glisten
It rained our last night in Bangkok, so we hailed a taxi and drove to a night market after dinner. There is so much gold and filigree and gems adorning the Wats, they shine and sparkle in the moon- and streetlights. It is amazingly blissful, and much like being in a giant jewelry store.




10. Wear easy-off shoes
I recommend flip flops, and no additional straps or buckles, etc. Take my work for it, I shoe-failed for our first visit to a Wat, and ended up heading back to change into a pair I could just throw off quickly. It was worth it, and  you spend 75% of your time shoeless, gaping in awe at the beauty of temples and stupas and gold and silver everywhere.


11. Pray to Buddha
Whatever religion you do or do not adhere to, you will feel a light and prevailing spiritual presence throughout the old city of Bangkok. Go with it, and praise Buddha in some Wat or at some chedi in whatever way you wish. It will feel wonderful, and you'll be that much closer to whomever your higher power may be.

Thailand is a theocracy, with the King as head of the religion. People frequently pause to place hands together and bow, and you'll look around to find a small worship space. You'll eventually, after a few days, pick up the habit yourself. It's contagious, and fun:)


12. Eat lots of good food 
Also pervasive is the smell and presence of deliciousness. Be it street food or restaurant fre, you'll be able to find something tasty. I suggest something with coconut milk. Or Indian. Or Middle Eastern. Or, what the hell, THAI. Perhaps it's because I've lived in Korea too long, but everything - including the eggs at breakfast - was "the best thing I've put in my mouth in MONTHS!"


13. Be prepared to SWEAT!
The guidebooks say the best time to visit Thailand is ANY TIME BUT SUMMER. So, July is steamy hot, and incredibly humid. I think I will wrinkle 3 years later from spending just 4 days there. There were times when I was simply standing there, and would feel sweat dripping down the back of my leg. That  doesn't usually happen when I RUN 8 MILES, so it was different. You get used to feeling disgusting and wet, and o just go with it after about 1 day.



14. Take things slowly (you don't really have much choice about this!)
Thailand isn't an island, but it certainly runs on Island time, a much slower clock than Korea (which is already slower than the US). We waited for an hour for dinner one night, and that was pretty common. So just go with the expectation that you need 2 hours for any meal after breakfast. And then enjoy the leisure time. Bring a book, drink more than you would...you're on vacation!



15. Just happen to arrive on an unpublished-in-the-guidebooks but very popular-among-the-locals holiday, where everyone will wish you well and give you many blessings!
Once again, me and my travel buddy just happen into a festival on an important holiday. This time, the holiday was the weekend celebrating the monk's entrance into a three month seclusion period. Lots of celebrations at Wats, lots of food being donated to the monks, then back to the public (see free lunch pics in slideshow!), and much good cheer. The people are very proud of their holiday and their temples, and are very giving and welcoming. It was a great time, and I highly recommend stumbling into celebrations that include praise, parades, fireworks, and a King's caravan.



Obvs, Thailand was incredible, I loved it, and I'm looking forward to going back someday!