CHINA!!!!
The Modern China is completely different from what I expected. Actually, I'm not sure what all I expected, but I know that the Beijing that met me off the plane was not entirely it.
Beijing is a beautiful city, with tree-lined streets and the kind of glass-and-concrete architecture rising to the sky that only a seasoned urbanite could love (so, of course, I do). It is also a city of contrasts – Communist yet Capitalist; have yet have-not; bustling but enjoying relaxation in parks and monuments. I guess I had expected something more foreign, and so much familiarity took me aback. Cadena and I had to have long talks while observing the people, places, and their activities, about divergent philosophies and actually seeing Modern Communism play out so much like life back home. It was truly bewildering at times, but also so interesting, and I'm so glad I have a way to share it!
Day 1
We – a group of 45 strong! - land in China in the early afternoon. The rumors about smog are ALL TRUE...it it thick as pea soup, and you can see it in my pictures. Luckily, it does not block out our first propaganda billboards!
We drive into Beijing for a lunch of – what else?? - Peking Duck (among other dishes). Beijing was formerly named Peking, and the name of it's signature delicacy has stuck. It was good, but I don't believe we ate it at a specialty house, which is recommended. And beer, because that pairs so well with duck (can you hear the dripping sarcasm?).
Next, we're off to an evening acrobatics show, China Treasures. The show features death-defying (and I mean that quite literally) feats of high jumping, tumbling, contortion and, oh yes, about 12 girls pyramid-fashion on a bicycle. (Cue Queen!) The theater is patrolled by small, older women with bright green laser pointers preventing too many pictures from being taken, but I did sneak a couple. Two of our group are taken on stage to be part of the show (thankfully, not part of the death-defying parts!).
On to the hotel, to check in. I ask about massages at the hotel, and receive the first joyous surprise of the trip – we're already booked for them the following day. Hoorah!
Day 2
Oh, is there ever a full day planned – The Great Wall, a Jade Factory tour (government required), the Summer Palace, and then the famous Beijing Silk Factory, an indoor market where you can get anything, and bartering is the only language that matters.
First, yes, I did climb The Great Wall, and by climb, I mean near-90-degree-angle hike up uneven and worn stone steps alongside about a bijillion people (answering the question “So, what do you do with 19 million people in 1 city in the summertime?).Did you not know there were high peaks on the Wall? I didn't either. I mean, they run a marathon on the wall, for Pete's sake...just not on this end of it:)
The Wall is massive and impressive. A few times, I had to pinch myself to bring me back to the present moment while climbing it, but I did refrain from buying the “I Climbed...” t-shirt. The view from the near-top was gorgeous and extensive. The bottom area, however, reminded me of Disney World – full of trinket shops and ice cream stands. The somewhat-pushy hawkers of goods (I use the term “somewhat” here only in retrospect; see below re: the Silk Market!) seemed out of place and too Capitalist for such a monument. The first surreal and confusing stop on the tour.
The Wall is also where I was first introduced to the Buddha Belly, a distinctively Chinese phenomenon (I think, so far at least in my Asia travels). It appears that the Chinese male is institutionally required to, in times of extreme heat (shall we say, above 85 degrees), at-will, lift their shirts, exposing their often-sizeable bellies to the world in an effort to cool themselves. Many times, they will also rub said bellies. It is a sight, and one that can shock a Western sensibility if one is not prepared for it!
The Jade Factory was, as noted above, a required stop on our formal tour of Beijing. I am finding this is common in Communist countries, as the government can and will dictate elements of a trip in order to show off it's best side. I experienced the same in Vietnam. But this factory tour was well worth the trip – just look at all the carvings! Amazing. Many of the pieces are carved from one piece of jade. The table set is priced at just over $70K. Let me know if you'd like me to pick one up for you;)
The Summer Palace, now on the outskirts of Beijing (if there is such a thing:) ), is where the Emperor and his Empress would relocate in the heat of the season. Believe me, it was still hot there. But very pretty. We were only there for about an hour, but there was enough to see and experience to fill an entire a day.
After lunch (basically, white rice, as many dishes are fried, drenched in oil, or just plain too weird!), we stop to have traditional Chinese foot massages. An hour long attention to my feet at this point is most welcome, including salt scrub post tea-water bath. My toes, now painted red, are singing!
Next up, the famed Beijing Silk Market. I am not sure how to describe the market, and I have a feeling it's just one of those “you had to be there” experiences. And I hope some day you do experience the raucous, which is the best word I can use for it. Young women calling out, “Hello lady, you want to buy something?” Or “Beautiful, you need shirt? Dress?” “Look at my bags! You need Louis Vuitton? Coach? Look at MY bags.” “I give you good price – friend price.” “You so beautiful, you need my jewelry.” Etc. etc...Some sales women cried, some grabbed hands, arms, other bags, even children in order to get one's attention.
Once you're hooked by them, there is a language of bargaining. If you're not fluent, you're screwed, and will end up paying more than 10% of the amount they initially ask for. It takes patience, and much protesting on either side. My favorite interaction pattern went something like this (multiple times):
Sales: Hey, beautiful lady, you need new bag? I have many bag. Beautiful bag, all real, all leather.
Me: No, no, xiexie (Chinese for thank you)
Sales: Lady, looking is free! [grabs my hand, pulls me into stall]
Me: Hmmm...ooh, this one is nice. How much? [Look at sales with Louis Vuitton in my hand]
Sales: How much you want to pay? (they are actually very fluent in many languages, learned in the trade) [hands me calculator, we agree whether we'll be talking dollars or yuan]
Me: [I type in some ridiculous amount, like $5]
Sales: [Looks at me with disgust] Ooohh, Lady, this is genuine, good quality! I cannot sell for that price. What about this? [Hands me back calculator with equally absurd amount like $500]
Me: Oh my God, oh no, that's too much. That's ok, I don't need it. [I begin to walk away]
Sales: No, Lady, you buy, how much you pay, final offer?
Me: [I type in $10 on calculator] That's my final price.
Sales: Oh, Lady, you kill me. What is your final price?
Me: That IS my final price. I already told you.
Sales: No, lady, you need to pay me good amount. You pretty, you nice, I give you fair price. Friend price. How about this. [Hands me calculator with $250]
We go back and forth like this, getting closer and closer to a middle ground, closer to my $10 than her $250, when I use my trump card: The High Drama Walkaway.
Me: No, no, that's too much. That's ok, but I don't want to pay that price. I'd rather pay $25, but I understand, its ok, but I don't want it. [and that's when I walk away]
Sales: [I get about 5 paces away] Ok, ok, Lady, I give you your price! [shouting, maybe even following me away from her stall].
And SUCCESS!!!
However, after about 5 hours of this, I'm exhausted and starting to feel a bit sorry for the saleswomen, especially as I've now witnessed one crying and the apparent owner of the stall standing over her without pity. Later, I hear that these young women are brought from the West to work the stalls in the market, they work 10-12 hours per day, 7 days a week; no weekends, no holidays, no time to go home to visit family. I have no idea how they work off their indentured servitude, but as there's no one older than, say, mid 20s, there must be some way. But I feel dirty with this knowledge, and need to shake off the grime of the place. Cadena and I go for a walk outside, and I realize that this part of Beijing looks just like Michigan Ave, Chicago, complete with Dolce & Gabbana, Tiffany's, and a China Grill. Surreal moment #557.
Day 3
Tienanmen Square, The Forbidden City, the Olympic Village from 2008, a traditional tea house, and more Silk Market.
Have I mentioned the weather yet? I don't think so, other than to comment on the Buddha Belly phenomenon. Well, it is HOT, and I mean drip down the back of your leg muggy, sticky, sun burning hot. It didn't really hit me until Tienanmen, but spending about 45 minutes in the square, running to and from monument to statue to commemorate Soviet-style temporary exhibit to Chinese flag to portrait of Mao to finally group photo in front of the big red wall helps me realize that I am in a lightweight dress and steamy hot...not in a good way. ;) Furthermore, it is a clear blue sky (they had predicted rain!) with no clouds or trees in sight. I both love the square and hate the heat, with the knowledge I'll be out in it for at least 3 hours, as we stroll (can't go faster considering the massive crowds) from Mao's portrait to the Forbidden City.
All I can say about Tienanmen is wow. My mental picture is of the man walking in front of the tank back in 1989. Cadena remembers the burning monk. We are all solemn at first as we walk past the obelisk monument to the Revolutionary Heroes, and stand in front of Mao's portrait. I am also amazed that loud hawkers are everywhere, following us and all the other Western tourists, with little red books, china flags, green hats with red stars, fans, umbrellas (lady umbrellas for the sun!). This is not the Communism I had pictured. I buy a little red book of Mao's quotes, bartering it down to $2. It is slightly worn.
The walk from Tienanmen through to The Forbidden City takes about 2 hours, stopping for pictures, to hide in the shade of the giant awnings, and vie for a place among the crowds surrounding the throne rooms. It hits me, as I view the golden roofs and massive expanse of Chinese imperialism, that
1) they call us imperialists:), and 2) how strange that Mao kept The Forbidden City in the wake of his massive reforms, as it is such a symbol of the former Empire. His portrait stands on the gate wall welcoming us to the display.
The Forbidden City is really simply a great expanse of buildings and stone walkways, bridges, and corridors. Yet, it is impressive simply because it is so large. We only walk the main corridor, leading us through all the picturesque movie shot parts, but the outer-lying buildings are also roofed in golden tones and span out like giant wings. Even without the Emperor, the complex looms with its former power.
Pitstop at the former Olympic village to take pics in front of the Bird's Nest. We're here for maybe 20 minutes, and I get the impression this is another one of those government sanctioned points of interest.
Teahouse visit is next, where we are shown the proper way of tasting tea (traditionally, it takes 2 small cups), how to hold the cup for men and women, and how to serve tea beautifully. I spend an ungodly amount on loose leaf, but it is so worth it!
More silk marketing, where I'm getting better at the bartering, having conveniently gotten over my angst of yesterday eve. I do need to get everyone gifts, after all! But first, before even entering the market, Cadena and I sit down for our first real cups of coffee of the trip (please remember this is Day 3!). We have confronted our addictions, owned them, and are now on to acceptance and indulgence. I have a cinnamon latte, and they do not have nonfat milk in China. I couldn't care less!
The end of the day brings personal in-room massages. At $30 for 1.5 hours, I must take advantage. Cadena and I tip them $10 (Cadena is smart enough to tip in smaller bills in case they have to hand in money to someone) and, after they count the money a few times, we are thanked with hugs and praise. How cute are they?!?
Day 4
Our last day in China, and we have a light schedule. First stop, Heaven's Gate (or Heaven's Tower, or the Hall of Heaven, depending on your translation) – where the Emperor used to sit for animal sacrifices to hear fortune readings in hopes for good future of his country. It IS the picturesque China. The only thing missing is incense burning from the giant vessels surrounding the Tower.
Of COURSE, there is shopping planned before lunch. I mean, this IS China, after all (surreality #998). The Pearl Market, this time, is another several story building full of more sedate hawkers and goods, but this one has fine jewelry, as well. I almost forgo my move-back money for a coral-and-diamond necklace, but I practice willpower:)
At the airport, we run into a man with a particular shirt. Cadena is brave enough to ask for the picture. The translation reads “For the People”. I think my Dad will love it (no, I did not buy it;) ).
We are all so slap-happy on the bus ride from the airport back to Camp Walker that we can't sleep and I just laugh at everyone's silliness. I am happy to be back in Korea, to hear the lilting tones of Hangul, and to sleep in my comfy bed.
And I still can't believe I was in China! It was so surreal and such a fast journey that my head is still dizzy from it all. But I hope I've conveyed the adventure we had!
Shanghai, on the way to Bangkok, is next, in two weeks!
CHINA!!!
