Seoul Food

Welcome to chicken soup in Korea! Billed as "whole young chicken with ginger and green perielles"... I still have no idea what a pereille is, but I think it's an onion?... this tasty, steamy hot soup is a Korean staple, and perhaps my favorite food here on the peninsula.

It starts, as all Korean meals do here, with small plates of kimchi. Not necessarily what I'd consider an aperitif to chicken soup, but when in Seoul... The clay bowl then is set down right in front of you, still boiling, frothy, spices steaming out in curly-ques, the smell of something delicious wafting up into your face.

Now, you really should wait until the soup stops boiling, at least, to try and taste it. Twice now, I have burnt my tongue for DAYS because I simply cannot wait to dive in. So I recommend first adding sea salt liberally, handily located in a large shaker, and also spiced with ginger. The recipe does not call for salt before it hits the table, and I've seen natives drop a quarter shaker into their boiling bowls. I tend to add as needed.

Here's the tricky part to this soup - you can eat it methodically or you can nosedive into all its tasty goodness, but no matter what you do, you're going to come face to face with, exactly, a "whole young chicken." It is a healthy reminder that your food was actually, at one time, a live animal that was just boiled down and stuffed for your pleasure. And when I say stuffed, I mean STUFFED - rice, whole spices that I can't even identify, and a huge ginger root can all be found in the cavity. In an effort to access all this goodness, you have to stick fingers (I think the Koreans use chopsticks, but I'm not THAT good with them!) in and extract the bones and skin whenever you find them, either in the bowl or in your mouth. It makes for a quite the experience, and a closeness with your fellow eater who is as messy as you are after about three spoonfuls of effort.

All the effort is completely worth it, however, and after you've picked through and devoured just half the bowl, you'll be satisfied, warmed, tingly from the ginger, and entertained by the pile of bones and such. It may sound, at times, disgusting to a Western eater, but it is truly cultural and foodie fun.

Seoul Shopping

Shopping in Seoul is some of the most fun a girl can have in Korea. I haven't yet been to the Lotte World in Busan - advertised here as the the world's largest Mall (although see post on world's largest Buddha and here for some healthy skepticism on this claim), but Seoul's shopping is vast and only moderately expensive.  So, on this weekend's adventure in Seoul, we visited the COEX Super Underground Mall, and some above ground shops throughout Insadong.

One of the fun (in a macabre way) things about shopping in Korea is that there is ONE size. It doesn't fit? Too bad, you cannot go up or down. So finding something for an American - even a petite one - can be tough.

Thankfully (?), due to the wonders of a change in environment, I have developed a health issue that causes me to lose weight. That's right, folks, I am one lucky girl (as long as I can prevent it from bugging out my eyeballs or causing a huge, unsightly lump to grow in my throat). And I have lost enough to actually fit into some of these one-sizes.

Apparently, I do not look the one-size, however, because retail professionals like to argue with me when I ask to try something on. Nonverbally (because neither of us can speak with the nuance required for the following: "I think this might be perfect!What do you think?" with reply of, "There's no way that's fitting over your sizable rump and huge fronts!"), the exchange looks something like this:

K: Holds dress up to self, points to fitting room
Salesperson: Looks K up and down, shakes head imperceptibly, smiles, takes garment from K, places back on rack
K: *puzzlement* *offended but still trying to be polite*."No, I want to try it on," with big smile.

Alternately, the exchange may go something like this:
K: I would like to try these (hands salesperson 3 dresses)
Salesperson: Ok, follow me (shows K to dressing room, hands K back 2 dresses, with a not-so-imperceptable nod of "No, this one not for you" and keeps the third.)


Of course, this kind of exchange for someone who is a weight conscious (read: formerly eating disordered) can be devastatingly comical in a dark-funny sort of way. It's better with a friend to support you. (Thank you, Cadena!)

Thankfully, this weekend, I was able to convince saleswomen to try a few things on, even when they gave me the "No Largey!" look. I even surprised many of them when their dresses were too big or fit just right. And it was so gratifying, in cases where they held onto that third dress, to give them the imperceptible "Not on your life, now!" look when they tried to offer it back after I fit into other ones.

Ultimately, it may be better for Americans to have clothes tailored. But missing out on the scope and consumeristic heaven of these malls would be missing out on a major part of the Asia boom. So, put on your tough skin and try on some clothes - at the very least, you'll have a good laugh:)

Seoul Searching

I heart Seoul. It really is such a tremendous city, and I think if I lived there, I would actually want to stay in Korea...maybe not forever, but for at least my year +! And it helps fill multiple blog pages, so let's begin with some culture.

This weekend was spent mostly shopping and slogging through the rain, but we were able to hit one museum - the Korean War Memorial, which stands just outside of Yongsan Garrison. As luck would have it, Cadena and I just happened to visit the museum on 25 June - the 51st anniversary of the beginning of the Korean War. The museum itself is an immense place, very concrete and metal, but it has a haunting beauty to it. The exhibits helped us understand what 51 years of civil war/unrest have done to the landscape, the people, and the general philosophy of the nation. And getting to play inside weapons wasn't too shabby, either!

Planes, boats, helicopters way in back, and weapons as far as the eye can see

Taking this picture, I was saddened at the idea of kids playing on weapons but also happy at the fact the kids were girls who weren't afraid to get in there...yeesh!

gas masks are always creepy to me

I can appreciate the size of these things until I'm up close and personal

The entrance statues were really moving

I believe this to mean "Don't Climb" but am also happy if it means "Don't raise the guns."

Perhaps most interesting was the news reporter we encountered at the entrance, filming a piece in English. She mentioned that tensions on the peninsula have not been this high since the start of the War, which was surprising to both of us since we're relatively sheltered from all news about the growing threat.

It is incredible to think this nation is still at war, and has been for over 50 years. There are often talks about reunification, but considering the state of the two nations, I don't think that will happen any time soon. While it is a bit scary to think about aggression from the North, it is also comforting to see South Koreans memorializing their struggle and pushing to free the people of the North. With time, patience and hard work...and some help from larger influences...they may just see it come true.

And then again, maybe not. See here for the North Korean viewpoint on why reunification cannot occur now.

Viewpoint on a scud

This One Resonates

 You have to sit through 15 minutes of his schtick (not very hard!) to get to poignancy, but it's worth it! 

After my own 2010, I completely get it. 

Now THAT'S Customer Service!

Look at this email from someone who I granted a contract today:

Joo Jung ✆ to me

show details 11:55 AM (1 hour ago)

Dear Kristina,

Thank you very much for your confirmation. I am more than happy now. 

Regards,

Joo. 



I mean, seriously, how cute is that?? 

A Slow Weekend at Home

Nothing too exciting this weekend, as I am SICK! Yes, I think all the world travel, the time on planes (which we all know are cesspools of germs), and a go-go-GO attitude have knocked me out. I have a summer cold, and am spent.

So, between the tea, movies, naps with Furgie and trolling on Itunes, I thought I'd spend a few moments in that most timely of self-gratifying pursuits: Googling myself.

Quite interestingly, I found this little tid-bit.

Mom and Dad, I promise, this is not me. I may indeed elope again someday, but I swear I did not do that in Paris (this time)!

All the best wishes for these two. I hope this Kristina's marriage lasts a lifetime:)

Getting ready...

I paid the deposit on my China trip today, which means in 2 short weeks I'll once again be flying otherwheres. To get you (and me!) excited, here are all the basics on Beijing!