Today's (Tiny) Trauma

And I was just saying to people how EASY my move-back to Chicago was going...


Today, reality hit me in a seemingly-minor but emotionally-major way. Basically, I was scheduled to fly out August 14 on China Eastern and Continental airlines, with short layovers in a couple cities. While attempting to finalize my reservations and let them know I would be bringing my cute fuzzy with me, I discovered those companies do NOT allow animals in-cabin AT ALL. What the...? If you're an animal owner who travels, you've heard the horror stories of cargo travel for pets. I went into full-on fix-it mode. 


So, I was scrambling after hearing that news, as it was not my experience from my flight here. By "scrambling", however, I mean "sitting on the phone for 6 hours of my day waiting to talk to someone who eventually failed me." First, the process of registering her on each flight (Daegu to Shanghai, Shanghai to Newark, Newark to Albany) was getting really complicated - I found out, after registering on the cargo website, that I would have to hire someone outside of the airline AND the cargo company in order to get my paperwork together just for Continental. I couldn't even REACH China Eastern, as no one was answering the two numbers I had for them. And the price of all this just kept increasing with each call. I was looking at spending a) the money to get her a hardsides case with all their requirements and have my parents ship it here because they don't have them ANYWHERE in Daegu, b) the time I would have to spend either running around looking for a hardsides here AND/OR on the phone in order to arrange all this, and c) the expense to put her in CARGO, let alone d) the stress of two international flights without her, worrying that she was uncomfortable, hungry, tired, hating me, or worse: crushed! 


And then it happened: I was on the phone toward the end of my day with a lovely operator from Expedia (thank you, Fiona!), and I started crying. Not just the tearing up kind of crying, either, but the I-cant-talk-I'm-so-embarrassed-but-I-can't-respond-because-I'm-so-frustrated-AND-crying kind of crying. She was very sweet, and tried to empathize, saying things like, "Please don't cry" and "She's your baby, isn't she?" But it didn't help. We finally had to get off the line while she called Continental on my behalf. Wow, I was a mess. 

Ultimately, I simply canceled my first flight, decided to use the credit for travel around the States (Dana, I'm talking to YOU), and booked a different flight with Korean Air. THEN I booked Furgie on Korean Air, making sure via telephone that she could, indeed, ride by my side for a little extra cost. I only talk about the money, however, in order to emphasize the fact that she is TOTALLY WORTH all the effort!!!! 

Being the lovable cuddle ball she is, I think she knew I was stressed, as she has been by my side, nuzzling, or just sitting near me all evening. And she has gotten tons of love and TONS of treats for being so sweet. 


All's well that ends well, I guess! I am much happier, and I know Furgie will be on travel day. I arrive hours earlier at Wellspring New York, which will be wonderful (can I put in my request for bison sloppy joes now??)  I still get to say I've never flown into one of the big NYC airports - a strange distinction, I know:) And a BIG thank you to everyone who sent well-wishes in response to my FB distress call. I so appreciate the love!

Stuff Korean People Like

Inspired by one of my personal favorite webpages of all time, I am adding this regular segment to my blog. Enjoy!

1. KIMCHI
Ubiquitous, smelly, and famed for its dietary properties (questionable, as all claims made by Asian peoples are questionable [see also "world's tallest buddha" and "world's longest wall seen from space" posts...ok, one of those IS true}, kimchi is a Korean staple. And the people - they LOVE it! There are about 4 billion different kinds of kimchi, all served in tiny little dishes before a meal. I have only tried about 8, but I couldn't tell the difference between any of them.



2. LADY UMBRELLAS
When in Korea (and other Asian countries), bring a smallish umbrella, preferably in pastel shades, maybe even some lace around the edging, to shade yourself from the sun and preserve your whitest skin possible. Tanning is not big here, and I've even seen some men attempting to block out the nasty sun's rays using their European men's leather carry-alls.

3. SAMSUNG

The home company of everything electronica, the Korean muse seems to rise and fall with the stock prices of this corporate conglomerate. A great many Korean families are way over their heads in debt these days, and technology is one suspected culprit!

4. BLACK PEOPLE

The stereotype is true: Asians think Black people are an oddity. Now, take it to heart that they also think I am an oddity, but still, they're not lining up to touch me or take pictures with me (well, now that I think about it, they kind of do...anyway...). But I have seen great crowds gather around black friends and fellow tourists, just to get a snapshot with them.

It's also been said that Koreans sometimes try to wipe the dirt off, but I have never seen this and that is most likely something that happened many, many years ago. I have seen some distrust in Korean faces when I walk with a black friend (but then again, you see that in the States, too!), but nothing so overt as cleaning behavior. Overall, I think Koreans simply see a photo op and take it!!

THAILAND!!!

Another weekend, another adventure...and with the number of my weekends quickly counting down, I feel I have to make the most of each of them. Thankfully, Thailand was the place to do so!

I have to start out saying that this was my first non-organized-tour trip. I'm usually not one for group tours, but the tourism and travel office here has been super handy in obtaining things like travel visas and cheap airfare. But it was time - probably overdue - to venture out on my own with a travel buddy and have an adventure!

So, here are my suggestions of the BEST To Do's if you ever find yourself in the former Kingdom of Siam - Enjoy!:



1. First stop: Bangkok!
Bangkok is the capitol of Thailand, and the seat of the King, currently Rama IX. There are modern and old parts, and I highly recommend staying and touring around the Old City. It has something like 50 gajillion Wats (temples), the Grand Palace, gardens, monuments, a fort, a river, cruise boats and water taxis, and is easily walkable throughout. The modern city is much like any dirty, old city in the States, and is nothing to write home about; but you can actually feel the age of Old Bangkok. We stayed in a cheap little hotel along one of the canals, and were able to walk or take a short ride to anything we wanted to see.

2. Ride a Tuk-Tuk...but be prepared to argue!
Tuk-tuks are basically a scooter with a small flatbed in the back, rigged up to carry 2-4 people (but we saw many more crammed in them!) for short distances. For a mere 20 bhat, we hired a driver for 3 hours to take us to several Wats and statues. The arguing comes in when the driver insists on taking you to sites such as a jewelry factory or a tourist office, where he gets a kickback or a gas discount just for showing up with people; another common argument is when he tries to charge you double at the end of your time with him, saying that his rate was "for 1 person, and you are 2!" Just laugh it off and chalk it up to part of the experience...but don't pay more than your stated agreement. All the guidebooks recommend to agree on an amount beforehand, and you absolutely should...but also be prepared for them to change it at the end of the day.

3. Visit as many Wats as possible
There are so many wats in Old Bangkok that, after awhile, they may appear to be all the same. However, they are not, so perk yourself up with some good Thai coffee (the absolute BEST on this continent,  I swear!) and keep going, because there will be something - like a sitting or standing Buddha, or the "tallest" Buddha, or the "only" emerald or black Buddha in this hemisphere - in each one you see. And be astounded at the shear number of them, because they can be around every corner. Thailand, after all, is a theocracy, and you will see people turning with hands pressed together anywhere near a Wat, taking a brief moment to pay respect to the deity close by. The Thai people are a very good example of making some time for spirituality in the every day. 

4. Buy auspicious bracelets
They are sold at Wats and monasteries, and are usually made of metal or semi-precious stones. Buy one for your friend, and lovely people at home. They bring good luck and blessings, and Lord knows we could all use  those!

5. Travel with a good friend
Preferably one who's flexible and understanding, for when you screw up things like, say, your flight home... (more on that later)

6. Don't purchase or wear funny pants
You will see them everywhere, often hidden in the most unremarkable places, like a market stand selling fine crafts; you will see them on hippies and 50-year-old tourists from LA alike; you will see them at train stations and in subways and in tuk-tuks, but you will NEVER see them on a native Thai. They are funny-pants, and range from palazzos with elephants and bright prints to gauzy wide-legs with an indescribable and baffling third leg down the middle (supposedly, the crotch?). My friend Cadena calls them dookie pants, because they kind of hang like that. They are hideous...and still, they start to grow on you after about 3 days. Something about the patterns, I think, that are hypnotic. But resist, dear friends, because there is no where on this Earth that they are appropriate, and your friends and other tourists will just laugh at you behind your back:)  

7. Go over your budget at Night Markets
People may head to China for all the wares, but Chiang Mai is where it's at for handcrafts and homemade goods that are impressive - and impressively inexpensive. You ALL are getting gifts, so yay for Thailand! There is everything from food to clothes to art to paper goods to Buddhist paraphernalia to little bits of culture. It is astounding, and all sorts of a cultural learning experience. And, luckily, there are plenty of ATMs nearby.

8. Get out of Bangkok and do something fun, like riding elephants! (I.e, don't screw up your plane tickets)
So, yeah, about that bit on the tickets...we're sitting at dinner on our first night in Chiang Mai, and we're reviewing our itineraries so that we can plan elephant riding and possible ziplining with gibbons or head-sticking-in tiger mouths - you know, that old chestnut. And I look at our flight leaving Chiang Mai, and it is about 11 hours AFTER our flight home from Bangkok! OH NO, because that's not the correct direction of travel!! So, instead of riding elephants, we headed to the airport to try to get on another flight...not the easiest task, considering it was a holiday (see below also), but we were so blessed the entire trip, it happened relatively quickly and painlessly.

However, I have seen many people's pictures with elephants, and it looks amazing. I highly recommend it!

9. Go for a night drive to see the Wats glisten
It rained our last night in Bangkok, so we hailed a taxi and drove to a night market after dinner. There is so much gold and filigree and gems adorning the Wats, they shine and sparkle in the moon- and streetlights. It is amazingly blissful, and much like being in a giant jewelry store.

10. Wear easy-off shoes
I recommend flip flops, and no additional straps or buckles, etc. Take my work for it, I shoe-failed for our first visit to a Wat, and ended up heading back to change into a pair I could just throw off quickly. It was worth it, and  you spend 75% of your time shoeless, gaping in awe at the beauty of temples and stupas and gold and silver everywhere.

11. Pray to Buddha
Whatever religion you do or do not adhere to, you will feel a light and prevailing spiritual presence throughout the old city of Bangkok. Go with it, and praise Buddha in some Wat or at some chedi in whatever way you wish. It will feel wonderful, and you'll be that much closer to whomever your higher power may be.

Thailand is a theocracy, with the King as head of the religion. People frequently pause to place hands together and bow, and you'll look around to find a small worship space. You'll eventually, after a few days, pick up the habit yourself. It's contagious, and fun:)

12. Eat lots of good food 
Also pervasive is the smell and presence of deliciousness. Be it street food or restaurant fre, you'll be able to find something tasty. I suggest something with coconut milk. Or Indian. Or Middle Eastern. Or, what the hell, THAI. Perhaps it's because I've lived in Korea too long, but everything - including the eggs at breakfast - was "the best thing I've put in my mouth in MONTHS!"

13. Be prepared to SWEAT!
The guidebooks say the best time to visit Thailand is ANY TIME BUT SUMMER. So, July is steamy hot, and incredibly humid. I think I will wrinkle 3 years later from spending just 4 days there. There were times when I was simply standing there, and would feel sweat dripping down the back of my leg. That  doesn't usually happen when I RUN 8 MILES, so it was different. You get used to feeling disgusting and wet, and o just go with it after about 1 day.

14. Take things slowly (you don't really have much choice about this!)
Thailand isn't an island, but it certainly runs on Island time, a much slower clock than Korea (which is already slower than the US). We waited for an hour for dinner one night, and that was pretty common. So just go with the expectation that you need 2 hours for any meal after breakfast. And then enjoy the leisure time. Bring a book, drink more than you would...you're on vacation!

15. Just happen to arrive on an unpublished-in-the-guidebooks but very popular-among-the-locals holiday, where everyone will wish you well and give you many blessings!
Once again, me and my travel buddy just happen into a festival on an important holiday. This time, the holiday was the weekend celebrating the monk's entrance into a three month seclusion period. Lots of celebrations at Wats, lots of food being donated to the monks, then back to the public (see free lunch pics in slideshow!), and much good cheer. The people are very proud of their holiday and their temples, and are very giving and welcoming. It was a great time, and I highly recommend stumbling into celebrations that include praise, parades, fireworks, and a King's caravan.

Obvs, Thailand was incredible, I loved it, and I'm looking forward to going back someday!

Shanghai!

An 8-hour layover in Shanghai leaves plenty of time for exploration for our intrepid travelers, Cadena and Kristina. See their album of adventures as they search for the REAL China...and find at least hints of the old Shanghai !

:)

Before I Get Off the CHINA Kick....And Because Bloggers Don't Exist in China

According to the BBC and other media outlets, China is an enemy of free information. In retelling my own travels there, I remembered that what I experienced was probably not the REAL China - of folklore, of deep rooted love of country, of rice fields and workers and The Party. I saw the tourist's version, with tall buildings and the shopping mecca where you can get anything for any price, if you're willing to haggle (and haggle we DID!).

So, because I have a LONG layover in Shanghai on my way to Thailand this weekend (THAILAND!!!), my friend and I are going to attempt to visit the REAL China. I believe it'll be hard to find, as it certainly isn't listed prominently in the guide books, or on tourism blogs. Here is a hint of why:

(reposted from BBC.com)
An extensive web filtering system, dubbed the "Great Firewall of China", is one of the "most technologically-advanced in existence", according to Reporters Without Borders (RSF). It blocks tens of thousands of sites using URL filtering and keyword censoring.

Thousands of cyber-police watch the web. Internet cafes are closely monitored. Filtering targets material deemed politically and socially sensitive. Blocked resources include Facebook, Twitter, and human rights sites. RSF lists China as an "enemy of the internet" (2010). The CPJ ranks it as one of the "10 worst countries to be a blogger" (2009).

Here's a list of the media outlets in China:

The press

• Renmin Ribao (People's Daily) - Communist Party daily, web pages in English
• Zhongguo Qingnian Bao (China Youth Daily) - state-run, linked to Communist Youth League
• China Daily - state-run, English-language
• Jiefangjun Bao - People's Liberation Army daily, web pages in English
• Zhongguo Jingji Shibao (China Economic Times) - state-run, daily
• Fazhi Ribao (Legal Daily) - state-run
• Gongren Ribao (Workers' Daily) - state-run
• Nongmin Ribao (Farmers' Daily) - state-run, agricultural and rural issues
• Nanfang Ribao (Southern Daily) - Communist Party daily, Guangdong province

Television

• Chinese Central TV (CCTV) - state-run national broadcaster, networks include English-language CCTV News

Radio

• China National Radio - state-run
• China Radio International - state-run external broadcaster, programmes in more than 40 languages, notably to Taiwan and Korea

News agency

• Xinhua (New China News Agency) - state-run, web pages in English

Wish us luck! We'll keep you posted...because clearly, no one in China really can.

Thank You Notes

[cue cheesy elevator music]

Thank you, North Korean terrorists, for shutting down the power on Camp Henry today. Your timing - in hitting my building just when I arrive at work - could not have been less convenient. Bravo, North Korea, bravo...

Thank you, Admin o' mine, who is usually so on top of dates, times, and my schedule, for humiliating me in front of soldiers who came to attend a class today. Way to totally go back on supporting the change of dates that we fought about two weeks ago, and make me look confused...

Thank you, punk Korean kid walking to school with your friends, for screaming "HI!!!!" to me across the parking lot  multiple times, until you got my attention. As if my white skin, curly hair and substantial chest did not make me stand out enough in your society. I only responded "hello" to get you to shut up, but what I really wanted to do was a) punch you and/or b) tell you that kind of behavior is terribly rude...

Thank you, bacterial infection from China, for making me think you were gone, only to ravage my insides this morning in vengeance for my complacency. Well played...

With love,
Kristina

It has been raining for days...

I guess I've only been home from China (CHINA!!!) for a few days, but it has rained on each of them, for a majority of the time, and yesterday all day - a steady, continuous downpour, peppered with thunder and lightning. For the past two days, I have been greeted by a white line and nothing but clouds instead of my mountain. I miss Apsan when it is not there, and I will miss this view when I leave Korea for good.

And there it is once again - I've referred to leaving in a very passive, throw-away kind of manner. But it's time to let everyone know what my parents have been hoping for for weeks...I'm coming home! (cue song...sing it to me, Sean!)

I have talked briefly about a chauvinistic boss (all true) and health problems (resolving, hopefully), but I've stopped short in discussing home- and work-sickness. This blog has mostly been about adventure and embracing the craziness of life on the other side of the world. I chose not to discuss the sadness or the longing, because a) that's what my journal is for! and b) there has been relatively little of it, because I've been making a concerted effort to get over it:) I came to Korea for space and time, a sort of self-imposed exile to clear my head after devastating personal upheaval, and to try something completely new - new country, new colleagues, new work. I can admit that it was an effort to escape; not you, my friends or family, but an environment that was both oppressing and depressing. I left not knowing for how long or where I was headed after Korea.

All this time and space - and travel, of course! - have given me great perspective on the things that are important to me. And I have found the most important thing of all (and PLEASE don't be offended, Mom and Dad!!) is my work. I spent the last 6 years amassing a body of research, immersing myself in a public health movement that I believe in, and working with awesome people who find the effort and sleepless nights in pursuit of this work totally and completely worth it. Substance abuse treatment simply cannot fill the void left when I exited Wellspring and teaching. At this point in my life, my career is really all I have, and I know now that I must do what I love with people who love it too, and who appreciate my work.

I have also come to a better understanding of my friends and loved ones, and how much I really want to be close to them. Sure, our careers and families may someday separate us at some point in the future, but I will never again feel I need to isolate myself from the comfort of these things so that I can live independently.  I need them too much, and I am no longer afraid to admit that.

Someone asked me recently if I felt this experience was a failure, because I'm leaving so soon. My answer was a definitive "NO!". I have always been a "grass is greener" type of person who needed to experience that  the "other" was not really so much better than "this". Had I not come here, I would not have met some amazing people, I wouldn't have known that my work was so important to me, and I would always wonder, "What if Korea....?" Now, I don't have to. For that lesson alone, the trip was worth it. I have commented on Facebook a couple times how much closer I feel to people back home because I moved away, and I am thankful for that. Korea has also allowed me the time to embrace some things about myself that I would have felt tortured over had I remained in Chicago. Time and distance have led to acceptance, and I can deal with all of that stuff better now (but the details I'll keep for my journal, again:) ).

I leave Korea on August 14. Yes, I've already purchased my tickets home:) But there is so much more traveling left to do before then, and I'm determined to fit at least 2 more trips in: Thailand and Japan. And, of course, the DMZ! I booked Thailand yesterday; Japan may be my last hoorah. So please continue to follow my adventures for my last month+...they will be good ones, I promise.

CHINA!!!!

The Modern China is completely different from what I expected. Actually, I'm not sure what all I expected, but I know that the Beijing that met me off the plane was not entirely it.

Beijing is a beautiful city, with tree-lined streets and the kind of glass-and-concrete architecture rising to the sky that only a seasoned urbanite could love (so, of course, I do). It is also a city of contrasts – Communist yet Capitalist; have yet have-not; bustling but enjoying relaxation in parks and monuments. I guess I had expected something more foreign, and so much familiarity took me aback. Cadena and I had to have long talks while observing the people, places, and their activities, about divergent philosophies and actually seeing Modern Communism play out so much like life back home. It was truly bewildering at times, but also so interesting, and I'm so glad I have a way to share it!

Click here for the full album!

Day 1

We – a group of 45 strong! - land in China in the early afternoon. The rumors about smog are ALL TRUE...it it thick as pea soup, and you can see it in my pictures. Luckily, it does not block out our first propaganda billboards!

We drive into Beijing for a lunch of – what else?? - Peking Duck (among other dishes). Beijing was formerly named Peking, and the name of it's signature delicacy has stuck. It was good, but I don't believe we ate it at a specialty house, which is recommended. And beer, because that pairs so well with duck (can you hear the dripping sarcasm?).

Next, we're off to an evening acrobatics show, China Treasures. The show features death-defying (and I mean that quite literally) feats of high jumping, tumbling, contortion and, oh yes, about 12 girls pyramid-fashion on a bicycle. (Cue Queen!) The theater is patrolled by small, older women with bright green laser pointers preventing too many pictures from being taken, but I did sneak a couple. Two of our group are taken on stage to be part of the show (thankfully, not part of the death-defying parts!).

On to the hotel, to check in. I ask about massages at the hotel, and receive the first joyous surprise of the trip – we're already booked for them the following day. Hoorah!

Day 2

Oh, is there ever a full day planned – The Great Wall, a Jade Factory tour (government required), the Summer Palace, and then the famous Beijing Silk Factory, an indoor market where you can get anything, and bartering is the only language that matters.

First, yes, I did climb The Great Wall, and by climb, I mean near-90-degree-angle hike up uneven and worn stone steps alongside about a bijillion people (answering the question “So, what do you do with 19 million people in 1 city in the summertime?).Did you not know there were high peaks on the Wall? I didn't either. I mean, they run a marathon on the wall, for Pete's sake...just not on this end of it:)

The Wall is massive and impressive. A few times, I had to pinch myself to bring me back to the present moment while climbing it, but I did refrain from buying the “I Climbed...” t-shirt. The view from the near-top was gorgeous and extensive. The bottom area, however, reminded me of Disney World – full of trinket shops and ice cream stands. The somewhat-pushy hawkers of goods (I use the term “somewhat” here only in retrospect; see below re: the Silk Market!) seemed out of place and too Capitalist for such a monument. The first surreal and confusing stop on the tour.

The Wall is also where I was first introduced to the Buddha Belly, a distinctively Chinese phenomenon (I think, so far at least in my Asia travels). It appears that the Chinese male is institutionally required to, in times of extreme heat (shall we say, above 85 degrees), at-will, lift their shirts, exposing their often-sizeable bellies to the world in an effort to cool themselves. Many times, they will also rub said bellies. It is a sight, and one that can shock a Western sensibility if one is not prepared for it!

The Jade Factory was, as noted above, a required stop on our formal tour of Beijing. I am finding this is common in Communist countries, as the government can and will dictate elements of a trip in order to show off it's best side. I experienced the same in Vietnam. But this factory tour was well worth the trip – just look at all the carvings! Amazing. Many of the pieces are carved from one piece of jade. The table set is priced at just over $70K. Let me know if you'd like me to pick one up for you;)

The Summer Palace, now on the outskirts of Beijing (if there is such a thing:) ), is where the Emperor and his Empress would relocate in the heat of the season. Believe me, it was still hot there. But very pretty. We were only there for about an hour, but there was enough to see and experience to fill an entire a day.

After lunch (basically, white rice, as many dishes are fried, drenched in oil, or just plain too weird!), we stop to have traditional Chinese foot massages. An hour long attention to my feet at this point is most welcome, including salt scrub post tea-water bath. My toes, now painted red, are singing!

Next up, the famed Beijing Silk Market. I am not sure how to describe the market, and I have a feeling it's just one of those “you had to be there” experiences. And I hope some day you do experience the raucous, which is the best word I can use for it. Young women calling out, “Hello lady, you want to buy something?” Or “Beautiful, you need shirt? Dress?” “Look at my bags! You need Louis Vuitton? Coach? Look at MY bags.” “I give you good price – friend price.” “You so beautiful, you need my jewelry.” Etc. etc...Some sales women cried, some grabbed hands, arms, other bags, even children in order to get one's attention.

Once you're hooked by them, there is a language of bargaining. If you're not fluent, you're screwed, and will end up paying more than 10% of the amount they initially ask for. It takes patience, and much protesting on either side. My favorite interaction pattern went something like this (multiple times):

Sales: Hey, beautiful lady, you need new bag? I have many bag. Beautiful bag, all real, all leather.

Me: No, no, xiexie (Chinese for thank you)

Sales: Lady, looking is free! [grabs my hand, pulls me into stall]

Me: Hmmm...ooh, this one is nice. How much? [Look at sales with Louis Vuitton in my hand]

Sales: How much you want to pay? (they are actually very fluent in many languages, learned in the trade) [hands me calculator, we agree whether we'll be talking dollars or yuan]

Me: [I type in some ridiculous amount, like $5]

Sales: [Looks at me with disgust] Ooohh, Lady, this is genuine, good quality! I cannot sell for that price. What about this? [Hands me back calculator with equally absurd amount like $500]

Me: Oh my God, oh no, that's too much. That's ok, I don't need it. [I begin to walk away]

Sales: No, Lady, you buy, how much you pay, final offer?

Me: [I type in $10 on calculator] That's my final price.

Sales: Oh, Lady, you kill me. What is your final price?

Me: That IS my final price. I already told you.

Sales: No, lady, you need to pay me good amount. You pretty, you nice, I give you fair price. Friend price. How about this. [Hands me calculator with $250]

We go back and forth like this, getting closer and closer to a middle ground, closer to my $10 than her $250, when I use my trump card: The High Drama Walkaway.

Me: No, no, that's too much. That's ok, but I don't want to pay that price. I'd rather pay $25, but I understand, its ok, but I don't want it. [and that's when I walk away]

Sales: [I get about 5 paces away] Ok, ok, Lady, I give you your price! [shouting, maybe even following me away from her stall].

And SUCCESS!!!

However, after about 5 hours of this, I'm exhausted and starting to feel a bit sorry for the saleswomen, especially as I've now witnessed one crying and the apparent owner of the stall standing over her without pity. Later, I hear that these young women are brought from the West to work the stalls in the market, they work 10-12 hours per day, 7 days a week; no weekends, no holidays, no time to go home to visit family. I have no idea how they work off their indentured servitude, but as there's no one older than, say, mid 20s, there must be some way. But I feel dirty with this knowledge, and need to shake off the grime of the place. Cadena and I go for a walk outside, and I realize that this part of Beijing looks just like Michigan Ave, Chicago, complete with Dolce & Gabbana, Tiffany's, and a China Grill. Surreal moment #557.

Day 3

Tienanmen Square, The Forbidden City, the Olympic Village from 2008, a traditional tea house, and more Silk Market.

Have I mentioned the weather yet? I don't think so, other than to comment on the Buddha Belly phenomenon. Well, it is HOT, and I mean drip down the back of your leg muggy, sticky, sun burning hot. It didn't really hit me until Tienanmen, but spending about 45 minutes in the square, running to and from monument to statue to commemorate Soviet-style temporary exhibit to Chinese flag to portrait of Mao to finally group photo in front of the big red wall helps me realize that I am in a lightweight dress and steamy hot...not in a good way. ;) Furthermore, it is a clear blue sky (they had predicted rain!) with no clouds or trees in sight. I both love the square and hate the heat, with the knowledge I'll be out in it for at least 3 hours, as we stroll (can't go faster considering the massive crowds) from Mao's portrait to the Forbidden City.

All I can say about Tienanmen is wow. My mental picture is of the man walking in front of the tank back in 1989. Cadena remembers the burning monk. We are all solemn at first as we walk past the obelisk monument to the Revolutionary Heroes, and stand in front of Mao's portrait. I am also amazed that loud hawkers are everywhere, following us and all the other Western tourists, with little red books, china flags, green hats with red stars, fans, umbrellas (lady umbrellas for the sun!). This is not the Communism I had pictured. I buy a little red book of Mao's quotes, bartering it down to $2. It is slightly worn.

The walk from Tienanmen through to The Forbidden City takes about 2 hours, stopping for pictures, to hide in the shade of the giant awnings, and vie for a place among the crowds surrounding the throne rooms. It hits me, as I view the golden roofs and massive expanse of Chinese imperialism, that

1) they call us imperialists:), and 2) how strange that Mao kept The Forbidden City in the wake of his massive reforms, as it is such a symbol of the former Empire. His portrait stands on the gate wall welcoming us to the display.

The Forbidden City is really simply a great expanse of buildings and stone walkways, bridges, and corridors. Yet, it is impressive simply because it is so large. We only walk the main corridor, leading us through all the picturesque movie shot parts, but the outer-lying buildings are also roofed in golden tones and span out like giant wings. Even without the Emperor, the complex looms with its former power.

Pitstop at the former Olympic village to take pics in front of the Bird's Nest. We're here for maybe 20 minutes, and I get the impression this is another one of those government sanctioned points of interest.

Teahouse visit is next, where we are shown the proper way of tasting tea (traditionally, it takes 2 small cups), how to hold the cup for men and women, and how to serve tea beautifully. I spend an ungodly amount on loose leaf, but it is so worth it!

More silk marketing, where I'm getting better at the bartering, having conveniently gotten over my angst of yesterday eve. I do need to get everyone gifts, after all! But first, before even entering the market, Cadena and I sit down for our first real cups of coffee of the trip (please remember this is Day 3!). We have confronted our addictions, owned them, and are now on to acceptance and indulgence. I have a cinnamon latte, and they do not have nonfat milk in China. I couldn't care less!

The end of the day brings personal in-room massages. At $30 for 1.5 hours, I must take advantage. Cadena and I tip them $10 (Cadena is smart enough to tip in smaller bills in case they have to hand in money to someone) and, after they count the money a few times, we are thanked with hugs and praise. How cute are they?!?

Day 4

Our last day in China, and we have a light schedule. First stop, Heaven's Gate (or Heaven's Tower, or the Hall of Heaven, depending on your translation) – where the Emperor used to sit for animal sacrifices to hear fortune readings in hopes for good future of his country. It IS the picturesque China. The only thing missing is incense burning from the giant vessels surrounding the Tower.

Of COURSE, there is shopping planned before lunch. I mean, this IS China, after all (surreality #998). The Pearl Market, this time, is another several story building full of more sedate hawkers and goods, but this one has fine jewelry, as well. I almost forgo my move-back money for a coral-and-diamond necklace, but I practice willpower:)

At the airport, we run into a man with a particular shirt. Cadena is brave enough to ask for the picture. The translation reads “For the People”. I think my Dad will love it (no, I did not buy it;) ).

We are all so slap-happy on the bus ride from the airport back to Camp Walker that we can't sleep and I just laugh at everyone's silliness. I am happy to be back in Korea, to hear the lilting tones of Hangul, and to sleep in my comfy bed.

And I still can't believe I was in China! It was so surreal and such a fast journey that my head is still dizzy from it all. But I hope I've conveyed the adventure we had!

Shanghai, on the way to Bangkok, is next, in two weeks!

CHINA!!!