31 May 2011

VIETNAM! Or, my first trip off the peninsula to see something other than Korea

Day 1: May 27 - Hanoi

Cyclos are popular!

First day in Vietnam and I am so excited! Also, first day in a) the 3rd world and b) Communism. Have already seen so much:
This could be Europe
1. Flying in over red tiled roofs that reminded me more of Florence or Slovakia than anything in Asia
One of MANY propaganda posters
2. Propaganda EVERYWHERE! Wonder what it says...

3. Scooters EVERYWHERE! No signals for crossing, so just walk at will and with care and people generally stop. But be prepared for horns.
I got a great shot of being alnmost hit by a cyclo in the  middle of the crosswalk! For my mother's sake, this is not it:) 

4. Wandering market square - shoes, silks, bags and beggars
5. Meeting street urchins who speak 4 languages
NOT the lady who accosted me with her pineapple, but the same baskets

6. Spring rolls here are not exactly what I expected
7. Shabby chic, dilapidated but beautiful Hanoi that is green as well as red, and still showing off it's French colonial influence
Hanoi streetscape


8. Accosted by a pineapple lady with her over-the-shoulder carrier - good pics, but railroaded into buying fresh fruit
9. 800,000 dong in my pocket and a market full of inexpensive goods!

Day 2: Halong Bay
A busy and LONG day, as it's 4 hours by SLOW bus east to the Sea. Stopped off in a mountain village for a National Geographicesque trek down a river. Pics of the countryside speak for themsevles...

Countryside - see the mountains in the background??
Um, yes, that is an ad at a restaurant for cat, dog, rabbit, and, oh yeah, chicken!
Where we boated

I think this is what I was expecting from Vietnam

Day 3: Halong Bay, part 2
5 hour boat trip through Halong Bay, trek up 500 stairs to amazing views, a dip in the sea to cool off, and caving (complete with neon lights?!). Dinner and night marketing.

Boats in Halong Bay
The Kissing Rock

View from above
Day 4: Back to Hanoi
Steeped in Communism today - Lenin, War museum, Hanoi Hilton, and Ho Chi Minh's tomb. Enough propaganda in English at Hanoi Hilton to make me tired and ready to go home.
Vietnam war memorial

"Uncle Ho"'s Tomb

An example of the propaganda in the Hanoi Hilton - made me a bit nauseous
A cell in the women's prison

Marketing and more harassment by beggars If you come to Vietnam, expect to be taken advantage of - one vendor even ripped the price tag off a package of dried fruit and charged me twice what the other packages were marked. But being ready to head home is a good way to end a trip.

Marketing in Hanoi. Jimmy: I tried to bring back a drum but they didn't ship from there and I could not bring it back! Never fear, I'll get you one from China. As our tour guide told me, "Everything's made there anyway." :) 


It was great to get off the peninsula and see new things. But once we hit the clean(er, relatively) air of Korea, I was happy to be back home. And sleep! :)

I look ridiculous, my little head in this big hat!

For all of my Vietnam photos, you're welcome to explore the full album!  



25 May 2011

Home tugs at my heartstrings...

Home is definitely where my heart is these days, and it tugs at my little heart much more often than I expected it to when I moved here. Just now, I had an email from a friend who I wish I could be there for - to support, offer words of encouragement, give a hug, whatever it takes to help her through this.

This kind of thing actually happens a lot. Maybe not emergency situations, and more often it's something like a book club or a party or pictures on Facebook. With the way the world is now, I can stay tightly connected to people even from the other side of the world, and leaving home isn't really leaving friends and loved ones. I am so glad for that, I really am. It just sometimes makes starting over more difficult.

I wouldn't change that. Instead, I'm finding it to mean, maybe, that my place is not as a wanderer, but really at home.

23 May 2011

Care Package

Clearly, my mom supports my health obsession.

In this month's care package, I found
1 package dry skim milk
3 containers Splenda (one granules, 2 packets)
saline (not HOB related)



Thanks, Mom and Dad!


22 May 2011

Puppies and Kitties and Marines, oh my!

The local animal shelter, Korea Animal Protection Society (KAPS), is a local agency that allows volunteers to come and play, groom, feed, and generally love the animals that live there.

My friend Cadena and I decided to volunteer this past Saturday, and it was a wonderful experience. We started with walking dogs through a local park. The Marines from the title came up from Camp Mujuk, and I mention them because these big guys walking such little dogs were a satisfyingly funny sight:)

My pup, I called her Cody 
Dog kennels in Korea are not very regulated, and they are not required to vaccinate, spay/neuter, or generally de-bug the animals. KAPS works on donated funds, and they don't have a lot of money to provide for the animals as they would like to. They do the best they can with what money they have. But it is hard to see how different the conditions are here as opposed to in the states.

Like all dogs, these just needed a little love and exercise.






The cats, however, live under different conditions. They are given lots of room to roam around, outdoor and indoor spaces, and volunteers can go in, sit down and allow them to come get lovins.


Cats are not well treated in Korea because the people are traditionally  superstitious about them. They are thought to be dangerous to children, and as this society values children above all else, cats are frequently disposed of whenever a woman becomes pregnant. Mothers-in-law are said to be especially serious about this belief. 


This one came jumped into my lap the minute I sat down:)

Cats are also kicked, thrown stones at, or cut if people can get close enough to them. We witnessed this tiny kitten being fed, and then tended to by a veterinarian, because it was losing it's entire left paw up to the shoulder joint. It was a new wound. Not pretty. I will not picture it here. 





It felt good to help this organization out, and I am sure I will go back again. They do need people to help bottle feed all the kittens!!! And a generally good cause to work. for. 

If you'd like to donate money, visit the KAPS website. Any donation is a blessing. 



21 May 2011

My first trip to the doctor

I have been feeling under the weather lately (ok, for the past month!), so I finally found my courage and made an appointment with a doctor here in Korea. Amazingly, and most helpfully, they have a "foreigner's clinic" attached to the new Medi Park "Women & Baby's" Hospital.

Since I arrived and began processing my health insurance, I have heard stories of Korean health care. "Don't be nervous," and "Don't be fooled by appearances...it really is good care," have been a couple of the more common  comments. Korean health care is a social program, but benefits apparently run out sometime in old age, as one's children are expected to take care of their parents and include them on health care plans. As in all of Korea, health care, therefore, is marketed and designed for the young.

I should have known my experience would be different when I made the appointment.First,  I spoke with "Wendy", a nurse, who told me to call her on the phone whenever I came to the hospital, instead of checking in. "I will take care of you that day," she said, so I actually thought I was talking directly to my doctor. And second, my appointment was on Saturday. Awesome.

The hospital itself is pink, reminiscent of terracotta homes I've seen in South Florida. I walked into what reminded me of an island airport terminal, sans palm fronds - a brightly lit indoor area, bustling with families and pregnant women, with coffee bar to the left, travel agency to the right, and ads everywhere for health products and therapies. The information desk staffed by matching girls in their flight-attendant-esque uniforms sitting behind computers did nothing to assure me that this was, indeed, a hospital. I called Wendy, she came out in red polo shirt and denim skirt, and again,  I pinched myself to make sure I wasn't dreaming. She led me upstairs  - a glass, see-through staircase that made me feel I was in the Michigan Avenue Banana Republic - where I was led to a red leather chair and a glass table to complete some basic paperwork.

The diagnostic interview is a little different when using a translator. She directed the interview between me and the head nurse, and it was a little disconcerting for her to focus on things that I didn't necessarily want to focus on.

Since it was a Women's hospital, and despite my symptoms, I had to take a pregnancy test first, as if that were the a) answer to everything and/or b) the gateway to everything else. They sent me off with a dixie cup (quite literally) and off I went. Carried it back with a paper towel over it, because that just seemed the right thing to do, and deposited it onto the front desk, where I was directed, to another uniformed twin who instantly dipsticked it. Nothing like instant results.

the cup
I won't bore you with the details of the rest of my rooms, doctors, and such, but let's just say that whatever you need, if it's a bloodtest, an x-ray, ultrasound, what have you, they whisk you off to whatever room it's in and get it all done right away. And, it being Korea, the needles are really tiny, so they don't hurt at all! All terribly efficient and fast: 45 minutes from the minute I arrived, I was headed out the door.

Will await blood test results in one week, and hopefully they can give me the reason for my persistent fatigue. And, as full of good blogging material this was, I hope to not have to visit Medi Park again soon:) 

17 May 2011

My Lucky Day


The Starbuck's on Camp Walker has fat free milk! 

Drink on, happy people:) 

16 May 2011

Fancy that...


Here is what two trips, Vietnam and China, look like - in cash! Too funny...and too worth it!


15 May 2011

Adventures in Trademark Violation

Just a few fun shots from around my neighborhood to show that trademarks and logos are, after all, just pictures and words:)

The sign on a bakery - notice chef boyardee?

In no way related to Seattle's Best Coffee, but clearly trying to be like it.

Oh yes, they have 7-11 here - it even doubles as CVS:)




14 May 2011

Quite possibly my favorite Korean TV commercial

Oh the things you see on TV in Korea! Please go to Youtube and watch this commercial...it is worth it, I promise you:)

My favorite Korean TV commercial ever!

#Unexpected:)


13 May 2011

Current Weather Report


Weather Report

This is my current weather today, posted by Google:


Yikes...welcome to Friday the 13th here in Daegu!

10 May 2011

Touring In My Own Town

This past weekend, Cadena and I decided to be tourists in our own town - a jingly little phrase I am shamelessly stealing from a Lansing, MI ad campaign from my childhood!

So, we rode the red line subway from end to end, just to see what it looks like "out there"; specifically, NO DIFFERENT than any other part of the city we have seen. Incredible.

Neither of us has taken up Hangul yet, either, so it wasn't like we could just hop on a bus and watch as the town swept by...no, we had to do the underground passage. And Daegu is so small, it didn't take long. At the end of our fun-ride, we thought we'd have lunch and then take a tour bus around the city, as that seemed safe.

And that's when we found it - Mr. Big's Family Restaurant, which specializes in, apparently, burgers.  I can't remember the last time I actually ate a hamburger. And I'm telling you, the wait was worth it. We both took our first bites and just looked at each other as if to say, "OMG!". Yeah, it was that good. (So, Dad, you can come visit now that I've found an American breakfast place AND a burger joint!)
I did not get pics of the burgers - gone too fast?!? - but I did want to post french fries with the preferred condiment, olio. Blech. We had to ask for ketchup:)

 Post-hamburger-coma, we headed out on the town again, this time in search of the bus station. On the way, we stumbled on Chilseong Market, one of the bigger open air vendor sites in town.
We are not advised to purchase seafood/fish here



Yes, those are hot dogs in plastic.












And this is where we found out that Koreans really do eat dog...it is not just some derogatory joke...


The tradition of eating dog comes from Korea's distressing past of being conquered by the Chinese, then the Japanese, then the Chinese again....etc. What was once survival food is now a delicacy, but not one that they proclaim from the hills, let's say. In fact, my friend Cadena knows of at least one Korean American friend who adamantly denies this practice. Clearly, this is not the case. They have dog farms (I've seen one from a train) on which they raise dogs just for eating; they only eat one breed, bred specifically for this purpose.

And it's one of the more interesting aspects of this culture shock I'm experiencing. Eating dog, while terribly different and horrifying to imagine for me, is a natural part of this culture. Surprisingly, while I've had market mistresses shoo me from taking pictures of their products, no one at this stand or the goat-and-dog restaurant did so. It is simply a part of life.

We never made it to the hop-on-hop-off bus, as the day was HOT and we had walked enough. But it was a full day of culture shock, picture taking, and immersion! Just what I've been looking for.





08 May 2011

Always falls for the DJ...

Look Mom: my drink matches my dress!
Cadena and I attempted another night out in Daegu this weekend. It went relatively well - if by well you mean we at least saw some other people out:) That's probably because we began our night at
 "regular time" here - about 11p.

We started out with vinnereoo, which is becoming something of a ritual. (Bag #2 pictured above - the first one actually matched better.)And look, they even have a version of my favorite drink (altho, of course, spelled differently!):

Then we hit MK Club (the M stands for Monkey, I don't recall what the K stands for:) ). Now, club atmosphere in Korea seems a bit different from in the States. At home, it's all about the bump n' grind; here it's more  like the stand-in-a -line-and-sway-back-n-forth. They mostly move their hips in a semicircular motion, although some do bust out of line and start totally grooving with legs, feet and arms. But everyone looks at the DJ the entire time, kind of watching him instead of looking at/dancing with each other. Yet another place to not meet people.        
Not that we didn't have fun. Cadena and I danced together, scoffing tradition and getting some crazy looks:) We even were gifted a few drinks, so it wasn't a total waste of time;) But in a room full of natives and drunk soldiers, I was most interested in the DJ...


And you can't imagine how many people are out and about, or how outrageously dirty everything is after midnight. Daugu is a completely different world after 11p. I don't know if we'll be seeing it that often, but I'm definitely up for it again some time! 

04 May 2011

5 of Asia's most overlooked cities

5 of Asia's most overlooked cities | CNNGo.com

...and Daegu makes the list! Check out this article for some places that just made it on my travel docket!

Asia's most sinful cities

Asia's most sinful cities | CNNGo.com #1

Just thought I'd post a little current affair tidbit from Asia:) I love how Seoul makes #2 for all it's gamers - Jim and I didn't seem to have a problem walking all day!

02 May 2011

Yellow Sand

Here is what we've been dealing with around here lately - Yellow Sand (aka, Asian Dust), and exactly why I'm wearing glasses and probably not running (again!) today...



I know it sounds kind of bad, but really, I can't even tell when it's out there, other than it looks pretty hazy. My intern here, Raldo, advises me when I can go for a run, because, as he states, "We Koreans, we can see it and we especially feel it on our faces and in our breath."

So interesting living on the other side of the world.

I clearly have a case of the "Mondays"...

Ok, I know I'm not the only one who feels this way, but do allow me to vent a little here - Mondays are the worst day of the week.

But Mondays in Korea are especially tough for one big reason: it is Sunday in every part of the world that I know people, so NO ONE emails/chats/updates, etc. In one 24-hour period that I am awake and working, I receive all of 3 personal emails...and those are listservs. On any other day, Tuesday-Sunday, I can have 20+ when I wake up in the morning, and 30+ over the course of a day.

So of course I am bored, the first day of the week is usually slow around here (shoot, I work for the government, all days are usually slow...), so forgive me if I email you more than once, if I frequently update my FB status, if I chat you when you're clearly busy or unavailable...I am just trying to get through my Monday! :) 

Need your input...

What should I save for:
1. Tiny Korean car (colloquially called a "hoopdie"...so not kidding!) - used

2. Vespa - new

Vote by Comment! Thanks:)



01 May 2011

A note on getting your hair done...

It has been a couple of months, and it was time to practice some good self care and visit a hair salon. I love doing this, I really do - I would go about every 6 weeks in Chicago, and it always felt like a good splurge. Heading to a salon in Daegu, however, has its challenges; most prominent, the language barrier. This time, I decided to go to a salon on the economy (Maria, I am using my new lexicon:); I was recommended this salon by a couple of African American friends here, and if people there could handle their hair, I figured they could handle mine.

Now, before my mother (or father, quite honestly, who gave me a little ribbing about my "red" hair last time:) ) freaks, my hair looks really good - probably one of the best color-with-highlights I've had. It is simply the whole process that is strange.

For example, you'd better go into the salon with exactly what you want in mind, because there is no consultation; again, you're working with a language barrier here, so it's best if you've experimented in the past or are paying attention to magazines and pop stars. They CAN do it all, but you should know what will look good on you:)

Also, I suggest you prepare yourself for heavy scrubbing. From the hairwashers to the hairdyring attendents to the the stylists themselves, they will push and pull and prod you until they get the desired result - namely, their  desired result:) My hairwasher kept yelling at me to move up in the chair, but again, with the language barrier (and the towel over my head), I was missing her directions.

And they do have some hyper-powered color-off here - the product they use to remove hair color from your skin when they accidentally get it on anything other than your hair. Here, it is not an accident - they do it on purpose in order to get all the wayward hairs colored that they can. Much appreciated on my part. However, they then attack with some powerful color-off that looks and smells much different from our home-grown products, and that actually starts to burn after a very little while. It takes the color off, tho, and makes your skin shine! I do believe that the hairwasher was attempting to remove my freckles from my nose, tho, mistaking them for random specs of color!

Finally, do not expect to consult on hair styling - straight hair is the only way to go here!

When in Korea, it is best to go into new situations with no expectations:)


I know you can't really see this picture clearly, and maybe that's for the best. Last night was another night out exploring downtown Daegu, in the lovely company of Cadena. Pictured above is the bar that (mis)represented itself as "a multicultural space for arts..." We were hoping for beat poetry, we found tall brick-like circular spaces clearly meant for two, with pillows and low tables, a lengthy (not to be trusted!!) and pricey wine list, and chiffon curtains "hiding" us from the rest of the brick-like, circular...etc. Complete with candles (lit and electric!). We actually didn't even order...we just sat there in a space that was clearly meant for dates/making out/other whatever (I was NOT comfortable in my bare feet), LAUGHING and taking pics surreptitiously, like the one above.

And thus went another night in Daegu, the strangest town for trying to go out and meet people. It didn't help that it was raining. But still, the clubs and bars were DEAD. Laughably, I think we have been just a little early (about 10pm vs. 12am) for any real out-and-aboutness. We have a plan for getting out there eventually, which does include a nap, but I won't bore with details as it just makes us sound old (as if nap didn't already do that:) ).

The best part of the night, and another check box off my Korean experience, was vinneroo. No, I am not positive on that spelling, but I AM very sure that this is one of the best things I've found in Daegu yet!! It is, basically, an adult juice box - a plastic Capri sun type bag filled with any combination of alcohol + mixer you could desire, shaken, with straw insert, all for  4000 won (roughly $4.00), to take with you, because there are no laws against open containers in S Korea. My choice was vodka grapefruit. It was splendid!!! I did not get any pictures because, again, it was raining and it was also gone way too fast. But I will go back and have another (several, few, etc) and will document just for you:)

Come visit, because Vinneroo is the best, and a nice panacea for the lack of good social environments!